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Ayam Betutu Recipe (Balinese Steamed and Grilled Chicken)

A deeply aromatic Balinese chicken dish, marinated and stuffed with rich spices and cassava leaves, wrapped in banana leaves, steamed, then grilled for a smoky finish.
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 2 hours
Total Time 2 hours 30 minutes
Servings: 6 people
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Balinese, Indonesian
Calories: 500

Ingredients
  

Main Ingredients
  • 1 whole chicken about 2–2.5 lbs / ± 1 kg
  • 2 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 3.5 oz 100 g cooked cassava leaves (daun singkong), chopped (Substitute: kale or collard greens, blanched and chopped)
  • 2 stalks lemongrass serai, white part only, thinly sliced
  • 5 kaffir lime leaves daun jeruk, remove central vein
  • Banana leaves for wrapping or parchment paper and foil as alternatives
Spice Paste (Bumbu Halus)
  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 7 shallots or 1 small red onion
  • 12 red chili peppers cabai merah keriting (Use fewer or milder varieties as preferred)
  • ¾ inch 2 cm turmeric, lightly roasted (Substitute: 1 tsp ground turmeric)
  • 2 candlenuts kemiri, toasted (Substitute: 1 tbsp macadamia nuts or blanched almonds)
  • ½ tsp shrimp paste terasi, roasted (Optional: replace with 1 tsp fish sauce or omit)
  • ½ tsp ground coriander
  • ½ tsp ground white or black pepper merica
  • ¾ inch 2 cm ginger, grated
  • ¾ inch 2 cm galangal (lengkuas), grated (Substitute: extra ginger + a bit of lime zest)
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 2 tablespoons shaved palm sugar gula merah (Substitute: light brown sugar)

Instruction
 

  1. Marinate the Chicken
    Rub the chicken with lime juice and salt. Let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse and pat dry.
  2. Make the Spice Paste
    Blend all spice paste ingredients into a smooth paste. Sauté in a bit of oil until fragrant, 5–7 minutes. Add the sliced lemongrass and cook another minute. Remove from heat.
  3. Stuff and Season
    Divide the cooked paste into two portions. Mix half of it with the chopped cassava leaves and kaffir lime leaves. Stuff this into the chicken cavity. Secure the opening with toothpicks or twine. Rub the remaining spice paste all over the outside of the chicken.
  4. Wrap and Steam
    Wrap the chicken tightly in banana leaves. If unavailable, use parchment paper followed by aluminum foil. Steam over boiling water for 45 minutes or until fully cooked and tender.
  5. Grill to Finish
    Unwrap the chicken and grill over charcoal or in a grill pan until slightly charred and aromatic, about 5–10 minutes per side. Serve hot, cut into pieces or halved.

Notes

  • Candlenuts (kemiri): Add richness and help bind the spice paste. Substitute with macadamia or blanched almonds if needed.
  • Cassava leaves: Found in frozen form at Asian or African groceries. Substitute with kale, collard greens, or spinach.
  • Banana leaves: Usually available frozen. If not, parchment and foil preserve moisture well.
  • Shrimp paste: Very traditional but can be replaced or omitted depending on dietary preferences.
  • Chilies: Adjust heat level to your liking. For a mild version, use red bell peppers or omit entirely.
  • Grilling: An outdoor grill gives the best flavor, but a stovetop grill pan or oven broiler works well too.
  • Traditional Cooking Method: While the modern version of Ayam Betutu takes around 2 hours to cook using steaming and grilling, the traditional Balinese method is far more elaborate. The chicken is wrapped in banana or pinang leaves, buried underground, and slow-cooked over hot coconut husk embers for 8 to 10 hours. This technique results in incredibly tender meat with deep, smoky, earthy flavors—reflecting centuries of culinary tradition. If you have the time and tools, it's a unique and rewarding way to experience Betutu the way it's been prepared in Bali for generations.